top of page
Search

How To Build a Standing Desk

The beginning of it all.



This desk. This is what started it all for me. Since this was my first project to build, it seems fitting that I also use it to attempt my first ‘how to’ post. I’ll tell you exactly how I did it, right down to the ‘buy this frame’ and cut your boards this size. And then I’ll throw a few ideas for variations at the end for those of you needing to customize your desk a bit more.





So, I assume you’re willing to click on a post like this because you have some bit of interest in learning how to do this yourself rather than know learn all about me. If I’m wrong, so be it. But if I’m right, I’m not going to waste your time with any back story about how it came to be because I know deep down that you probably don’t really care… But if you do, send me a message and I’ll be glad to share my life story that led to the creation of this first desk. Until then....let's get right to the 'HOW TO'.





Desk Top Dimensions:

  • 60” x 30” x 1.5”


Material Needed:


Helpful Tools:

  • Miter Saw (Any saw that cuts a board will work!)

  • Large clamps

  • Orbital Sander

  • Electric Drill


Cut List:

  • (4) 2’x8’x8’ @ 60”



 


Step 1: Order Frame



So, first step, order this frame.







Step 2: Buy lumber



While you are waiting for this frame to arrive on your front step, purchase your lumber. The simplest place to find what you need is at your nearest Home Depot or Lowes where there is a wide variety of options. Obviously, buy your 2x8 boards anywhere that sells them and you’ll be set.






Step 3: Cut boards


With your 8’ boards in hand, use your saw of choice to cut your boards down to 60”. I prefer the miter saw to do the cutting, but just use what you have. A circular saw will work just fine too.









Step 4: Glue boards together


Using a pair of sawhorses or a flat surface large enough to support the boards, lay your boards out deciding which side you want on the top for each board. Once you have them arranged, grab that wood glue. It’s time to put this thing together. Generously apply glue between all boards. Using clamps large enough for this project, clamp your boards together (watch out for the desktop bowing as you tighten your clamps!). You will want something underneath the boards to catch the glue that drips as it dries. I just use whatever I can find–old cardboard, towels, a sheet, painters plastic, etc.


Now, sit down, relax, and wait. The glue will need about 24 hours to fully dry before you can move on to finishing.



Step 5: Sand Desktop

Once it’s ready, this is where having access to an electric sander is really helpful. Framing lumber can use a little work to smooth out the surface, especially for a desk top. You can always do this by hand, but it sure goes faster with electricity! Start with an 80 grit sandpaper and follow up with a 120 grit and just get to it. You will know you’re done sanding as soon as you decide the surface is smooth enough for your purposes.





Step 6: Stain Desktop (Top & Bottom)


For the look you see in the picture, purchase Varathane Golden Oak stain from Home Depot. Put on a pair of protective gloves and find an old sock or tshirt. I’ve even been known to use an old pair of kids undies when I’m desperate. There’s no need for anything you can’t find in the closet for a project like this. Mix your stain well and start to apply across the surface. Try not to allow pooling. After about 10 minutes, wipe off excess stain. Let this dry until it feels dry to the touch. Flip over your desktop when the stain has dried to the touch and do the same to the other side. Allow about 24 hours for the stain to dry. If you aren’t in a rush, it doesn’t hurt to give it a bit more time.



Step 7: Apply Polyurethane Coating to Desktop (Top & Bottom)


Once the stain is dry, you are ready to apply the top coat. If you like to clean (I don’t), you’ll want to make sure you don’t skip this step! I used Varathane Oil Based Polyurethane (Semi Gloss) that you can find on the shelf at Home Depot. Gently mix the polyurethane with a clean stir stick. Apply a thin coat using a quality brush and don’t allow it to pool. Once you’ve applied your first coat, go back to more waiting while it dries. Once it’s dry, take a 220 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the original coat. Wipe off residue from the sanding using a clean cloth or a tack cloth. Apply a second coat of polyurethane. And wait again. You’ll have to repeat this process on both sides of the desktop so this step will take a bit of patience.



Step 8: Assemble Standing Frame to accommodate 60” Desktop


While you’ve been doing all of this waiting, you have most likely received your Amazon delivery. You’ll need to assemble your standing frame according to the directions in the box. Keep in mind you’ve just built a desk top 60” long so build your frame to accommodate this size.


Step 9: Attach Desktop to Frame Following The Frame Directions


Now, all you have left is to grab the screws and attach the desktop to the standing frame according to the directions.



Step 10: Admire yourself.


As you admire your work, take a look at online furniture stores and do the math on just how much money you saved….






 

Notes/Variations/Lots of Other Tidbits


Ok. So you just read about the very basic down and dirty of creating this simple desk exactly as I did. Now, let’s talk about the endless potential of this simple project.


First, the size. You can customize the length of your desktop simply by cutting your boards shorter or longer. You could add depth to your table top by using additional boards.


Another option would be to use a different size board. If you walk through the lumber section in the big box stores, the options are endless. I have since made this same desktop using 2x6’s as well. You could even do a 2x10 or 2x12 if you wanted!


Keep in mind you can decide the thickness of the top as well. I prefer the thickness of the framing lumber for this purpose, but you could always use 1x8’s in place of the 2x8’s to get a ¾” thickness. It’s totally personal preference.


Now, the look. There are endless colors of stain to choose from so let the world be your oyster in this department. Reach out for recommendations if you are overwhelmed! I have favorites that I go to for different projects and trust me, I LOVE to talk about it.


There are also a variety of polyurethane options on the market with various finished looks. I like to pick one brand and stick with it for the same project but this isn’t absolutely necessary so feel free to shop until your heart is content. My only real advice is to make sure your polyurethane matches your type of stain (water based stain=water based poly, oil based stain=oil based poly). Otherwise, unless you’re planning for this to be a desktop that’s handed down over generations, my guess is you’ll create something that will work perfectly for your needs no matter what happens!


Another thing I wanted to note in regards to this beginner project. I used glue the first time I did this because that’s all I had and all I knew how to use so that’s how I wrote this post. It’s held up beautifully. But, as I’ve done more building, I prefer to add several Kreg Pocket Holes to assemble to boards on the bottom. I drill my pocket holes, align the boards and do the glue up, and then screw the boards together. I find I don’t need the clamps when I do it this way. So if you have access to the Kreg Pocket Hole System, I would recommend using that in addition to the glue. BUT, if you don’t, you’re desktop will still hold extremely well so don’t let it stop you!


If you take on this project, PLEASE send pictures! My favorite part of wood projecting is the fact that no project is able to be exactly replicated and I love seeing variations and different twists on the same project.







10 views

Comments

bottom of page